17th Century Christmas Feasts in Britain: The Ultimate Guide

The 17th century in Britain was an era of profound transformation and rich cultural tapestry. It was a time when the nation grappled with political upheavals, from the English Civil War to the Restoration, and experienced significant social and religious shifts. Amidst these changes, one tradition remained a cornerstone of the year: the celebration of Christmas.

Christmas in the 17th century was more than just a religious observance; it was a pivotal social event that brought together communities and families. It was a period where the cold, often harsh winter weather was countered with warmth, festivity, and, most importantly, food. The Christmas feast was a highlight, a time when every household – from the grandest manor to the humblest cottage – made an effort to prepare special dishes to mark the occasion.

This exploration into 17th-century Christmas feasts is not just a culinary journey; it’s a window into the lives of our ancestors. Through the food they ate, we get glimpses of their daily lives, their social structures, and even their worldviews. The Christmas table reflected the era’s ingredients, cooking techniques, and gastronomic preferences, influenced by the expanding global trade networks and the local produce of the British Isles.

As we delve into the typical Christmas fare of this most fascinating of eras, we’ll discuss not just recipes or descriptions of dishes but a taste of history itself. These meals, prepared and enjoyed centuries ago, tell stories of tradition, innovation, and the enduring human love for celebration and feasting. So, let’s step back in time and discover what your ancestors might have savoured during their Yuletide celebrations.

Historical Context of Christmas in 17th-Century Britain

The 17th century was a period of profound change in Britain that was marked by political strife and religious turmoil. These dynamics significantly influenced the way Christmas was celebrated, making the holiday a reflection of the era’s broader societal shifts.

The Changing Face of Christmas

During this century, Christmas underwent significant transformations. The early part of the century, under the reign of James I and Charles I, saw lavish celebrations, especially at court. Christmas was a time of grandeur, with feasts, masques, and entertainments reflecting the wealth and power of the monarchy and the aristocracy.

Nevertheless, the mid-century brought drastic changes with the English Civil War and the subsequent rule of the Puritans under Oliver Cromwell. From 1647 onwards¹, the celebration of Christmas was officially banned as part of a broader movement to rid the country of decadence and, as the Puritans saw it, “pagan” influences. This ban lasted until the Restoration of the monarchy in 1660², after which Christmas celebrations resumed, although with less opulence than before.

Social and Religious Significance

Despite the political upheaval, Christmas retained its importance as a religious holiday, celebrating the birth of Christ. Nonetheless, it also had strong pagan roots, with festivities marking the winter solstice. The mingling of these Christian and pagan traditions created a unique cultural blend that defined the holiday.

For the general populace, Christmas was a time of respite from the hardships of daily life. It was an opportunity to strengthen community ties, with neighbours often sharing what little they had in a spirit of goodwill. The feudal tradition of lords providing a Christmas feast for their tenants continued, although the scale of these feasts varied widely depending on the wealth and generosity of the lord.

Christmas Feasts as Social Indicators

The Christmas feast was also a reflection of social hierarchies. In grand houses, the feasts were extravagant affairs with multiple courses, showcasing an array of meats, pies, and sweets. In contrast, the common folk’s celebrations were modest, with simpler dishes often centred around whatever was affordable and available, such as pottage or a joint of meat if they were fortunate.

These feasts, whether lavish or modest, were not just meals; they were social statements, reflecting one’s status, wealth, and even political affiliations in a time of great division. The dishes served, the manner of their preparation, and the way people ate them spoke volumes about the household and its place in the complex melting pot of 17th-century British society.

Popular Ingredients and Cooking Methods in 17th-Century Britain

The culinary landscape of 17th-century Britain was a fascinating mix of traditional practices and the influences of expanding global trade. This period saw the introduction and increasing availability of new ingredients alongside the continued reliance on local, seasonal produce.

The Influence of Global Trade

The 17th century was a time of exploration and expansion, which brought a variety of new foods and spices to British shores. Spices like nutmeg, cinnamon, cloves, and pepper, once rare and expensive, started to appear more commonly, though many still considered them luxuries. Sugar, previously a scarce commodity, became more accessible, slowly transforming the British palate, particularly when it came to desserts and sweet treats.

Local Produce and Seasonal Availability

Despite these exotic imports, the mainstay British diet was based on locally sourced ingredients. Root vegetables like turnips, carrots, and parsnips were staples, along with cabbages and onions. For most, meat was a luxury, but it was eaten more frequently by the wealthy. Common meats included beef, mutton, and pork, with game meats being popular in rural areas. Fish and seafood were also important, especially in coastal regions.

Cooking Methods and Kitchen Tools

Cooking methods in the 17th century were heavily influenced by the available equipment and fuel sources. The open hearth was the centre of the kitchen, with most cooking done over open flames or in large hearthside ovens. Spit-roasting was a common technique for meats, while boiling and stewing were typical for preparing soups and pottages. Baking was also popular, especially for bread and pies, though it was often done in communal ovens due to the expense of maintaining a personal oven.

The Evolution of British Cuisine

This era saw the gradual evolution of British cuisine, as traditional methods and local ingredients were increasingly mixed with new flavours and techniques from abroad. This fusion is particularly evident in the Christmas feasts, which combined the heartiness of British fare with the exotic flavours of imported spices and fruits.

The cooking of the 17th century laid the foundations for many aspects of modern British cuisine. It was a period that balanced the old with the new, the local with the global, creating a rich and varied culinary tradition that was reflected in the sumptuous feasts of Christmas.

Here’s a detailed table highlighting popular ingredients and cooking methods in 17th-century Britain:

This table provides an overview of the diverse ingredients and cooking methods that characterised 17th-century British cuisine, reflecting the culinary practices and food culture of the time.

Appetisers and Starters of the 17th-Century Christmas Feast

In 17th-century Britain, the Christmas feast would often begin with a range of appetisers and starters that set the tone for the elaborate meals to follow. These dishes, while simpler than the main courses, were integral in highlighting the variety and richness of the culinary traditions of the time.

Pottage: A Staple Across Social Classes

One of the most common starters was pottage, a thick, often hearty soup that was a staple across all social classes. In wealthier households, pottage could be a complex and rich dish, featuring a variety of ingredients like meats, vegetables, grains, and herbs, often thickened with bread or oats. For the less affluent, pottage was simpler, primarily vegetable-based, but still a comforting and nourishing start to the meal. This dish exemplifies the adaptability of 17th-century cuisine, with its ingredients and preparation varying greatly, depending on one’s social and economic status.

Soused Herrings: A Reflection of Local Produce

Another popular starter was soused herrings, a dish that reflects the importance of fish in the British diet, particularly in coastal areas. Herrings were abundant in British waters, and pickling or sousing them was a common preservation method. Soused herrings were typically prepared by marinating the fish in vinegar, often with the addition of spices such as peppercorns, cloves, and bay leaves. This dish was a testament to the ingenuity of 17th-century cooks in preserving and enhancing the flavours of local produce.

The Role of Starters in the Christmas Feast

These starters were more than just an introduction to the meal; they were a part of the Christmas ritual. Pottage, with its warm and comforting qualities, was a welcoming dish, embodying the spirit of hospitality and generosity associated with the season. Soused herrings, on the other hand, showed the diversity of British culinary resources and the skills of the cooks in transforming simple ingredients into flavourful dishes.

At the time, the starters not only whetted the appetite for the courses to come but also told a story of the land, the sea, and the people. They were a celebration of both the bounty and the culinary creativity that characterised British Christmas feasts of the time.

Below is a detailed table focusing on appetisers and starters of the 17th-Century Christmas feast:

This table offers a detailed overview of the variety and complexity of appetisers and starters in 17th-century British Christmas feasts, highlighting their ingredients, preparation methods, and their social and cultural significance.

Main Course Delicacies of the 17th-Century Christmas Feast

The main course of the 17th-century Christmas feast in Britain was a grand affair, showing off the best of what the household could offer. It was a display of culinary abundance and sophistication that featured a variety of meats and pies reflecting both the wealth and the culinary skills of the household.

Roast Goose or Capon: The Centrepiece of the Feast

A popular choice for the centrepiece of the Christmas meal was roast goose or capon. The goose, often fattened especially for the occasion, would be seasoned with a blend of the era’s favourite spices such as sage, parsley, and thyme, and roasted to perfection. In wealthier households, a capon (a castrated rooster known for its tender meat) was sometimes preferred. These birds were usually basted with butter and herbs, ensuring a succulent, flavourful roast.

The Tradition of Pies and Pastries

No 17th-century feast was complete without a range of pies and pastries. The mincemeat pie, a traditional favourite, was a sweet pie filled with a mixture of minced meat, suet, fruits such as raisins and currants, and spices. This rich, heavily spiced pie was a Christmas staple and was thought to bring good luck if eaten every day of the Twelve Days of Christmas.

Other pies might include venison pies, pigeon pies, or beef and oyster pies, highlighting an array of meats encased in a crisp, buttery pastry. The pies were not just delicious; they were also a symbol of the household’s prosperity and the skill of the cook.

The Significance of the Main Course

The main course was more than just a meal; it was a celebration of abundance and a display of culinary expertise. It reflected the social status of the host and was a focal point for the communal celebration of the holiday. The presentation of the roast and the variety of pies would have been a source of pride for the household and a delight for the guests.

In these dishes, one can see the interplay of local traditions and the influences of broader culinary trends of the time. The roast goose or capon, with their rich, spiced flavours, and the assortment of savoury and sweet pies, tell a story of a society that, despite its many upheavals, found continuity and comfort in its culinary traditions, especially during the festive season.

Here’s a detailed table outlining the main course delicacies of the 17th-Century Christmas feast:

This table provides an overview of the main course dishes that were popular during Christmas feasts in 17th-century Britain, highlighting their ingredients, preparation methods, serving styles, and social significance.

Sides and Accompaniments in the 17th-Century Christmas Feast

While the main courses were the stars of the 17th-century Christmas feast, the side dishes and accompaniments played a crucial role in balancing and enhancing the meal. These dishes, often simpler and more rustic, brought the flavours of the local landscape to the festive table.

Root Vegetables: A Testament to Local Produce

Root vegetables were a mainstay in the 17th-century British diet, and Christmas was no exception. Dishes like roasted or boiled parsnips, turnips, and carrots, often sweetened with a drizzle of honey and spiced with nutmeg or cloves, were common. These vegetables, readily available even in the winter months, were a testament to the resourcefulness of cooks in using seasonal produce.

Stewed Fruits: A Sweet Counterpoint

Stewed fruits provided a sweet counterpoint to the rich, savoury flavours of the main dishes. Apples and pears, slow cooked with sugar and spices like cinnamon, were popular. These dishes not only added a sweet element to the meal but also reflected the seasonality of ingredients, with cooks making the most of the fruits stored from the autumn harvest.

The Role of Sides in the Feast

The side dishes were more than just accompaniments; they were an integral part of the culinary experience. They provided a balance of flavours and textures, with the earthiness of the root vegetables and the sweetness of the stewed fruits complementing the rich, hearty main courses. These dishes also showcased the diversity of British agriculture and the ability of cooks to create varied and flavourful dishes from simple, locally sourced ingredients.

Desserts and Sweet Treats of the 17th-Century Christmas Feast

An array of desserts and sweet treats marked the conclusion of the 17th-century Christmas feast. These dishes were not only a testament to the culinary artistry of the time, but also reflected the social and cultural importance of sweets in festive celebrations.

Twelfth Night Cake: A Festive Tradition

One highlight of the dessert course was the Twelfth Night Cake, a rich, fruit-laden cake that was central to Twelfth Night celebrations, marking the end of the Christmas season. They typically made this cake with a luxurious mix of flour, eggs, sugar, spices, dried fruits, and sometimes even alcohol. It was often elaborately decorated, reflecting the wealth and status of the host. The tradition of baking a bean or a small token into the cake was popular, with the finder often being crowned the ‘King’ or ‘Queen’ of the festivities, a custom that added a playful element to the celebration.

Gingerbread: A Popular Sweet Treat

Gingerbread, made with treacle, ginger, and a variety of spices, was another Christmas favourite. This sweet treat, with its warm, spicy flavour, was a beloved part of the festive fare. Gingerbread was often shaped into hearts, stars, or even figures, and sometimes decorated with icing, making it a visually appealing as well as delicious treat.

The Significance of Desserts in the Feast

Desserts in the 17th century were more than just a sweet ending to the meal; they were a symbol of hospitality and generosity. The labour and cost involved in preparing these sweet dishes, especially those containing expensive ingredients like sugar and spices, made them a sign of a host’s willingness to honour their guests with the best they could offer.

Moreover, these sweet treats reflected the era’s culinary connections with the wider world. Ingredients like sugar, spices, and dried fruits were products of global trade, and their use in Christmas desserts was a sign of the increasingly interconnected world of the 17th century.

Here’s a detailed table on desserts and sweet treats of the 17th-Century Christmas feast:

This table provides a comprehensive overview of the desserts and sweet treats popular in 17th-century Christmas feasts, including their main ingredients, a brief description, their cultural significance, and notes on their preparation.

Beverages to Complement the 17th-Century Christmas Feast

The 17th-century Christmas feast was not only about the food; beverages played a crucial role in the dining experience, complementing the flavours of the meal and adding to the celebratory atmosphere.

Wassail: A Symbol of Good Cheer

A central feature of the Christmas beverage selection was Wassail, a warm, spiced drink that was a part of Christmas traditions in Britain. Made from ale or wine, sweetened with sugar, and spiced with cinnamon, ginger, and cloves, Wassail was a hearty and warming drink, perfect for the cold winter nights. They often served it in a large bowl, symbolising communal celebration and hospitality. The act of ‘wassailing,’ going from house to house singing and drinking, was a part of the season’s festivities, spreading good cheer and well-wishes.

Mead and Ale: Staples of the British Table

Mead, an alcoholic beverage made by fermenting honey with water, was another popular drink during the Christmas season. Its sweet, rich flavour made it a festive favourite, often consumed during the feast. Ale, a staple of the British diet, was also commonly served. Brewed locally, each ale had a distinct flavour and character, reflecting the local ingredients and brewing traditions.

The Role of Beverages in the Feast

The beverages served during the Christmas feast were more than just thirst quenchers; they were an integral part of the celebration. They facilitated togetherness and camaraderie, playing a key role in the communal aspect of the feast. The act of sharing a drink, toasting to health and happiness, was a significant part of the social fabric of the feast, embodying the spirit of community and celebration.

Furthermore, these drinks reflected the culinary and cultural landscape of the time. Wassail, with its rich spices and communal serving, symbolised the warmth and generosity of the season, while mead and ale showcased the local produce and brewing skills.

Traditions and Customs Around the 17th-Century Christmas Feast

The Christmas feast in 17th-century Britain was much more than a culinary event; it was steeped in traditions and customs that reflected the values, beliefs, and social dynamics of the era.

Dining Customs and Etiquette

The way they conducted the feast spoke volumes about the social customs of the time. In wealthier households, the dining table was a stage for displaying social status and hierarchy. The seating arrangement was strictly adhered to, with the most important guests seated at the ‘high table.’ Manners and etiquette were of utmost importance, with an array of intricate rules governing every aspect of dining, from the use of napkins to the manner of drinking.

Feasting as a Community Activity

For the common folk, the Christmas feast was a more communal affair. Neighbours often gathered, sharing what they had in a spirit of community and solidarity. In some areas, it was customary for the local lord to host a feast for the tenants, a tradition that harkened back to the feudal system. These gatherings were not just about eating, but were also an opportunity for socialising, storytelling, and reinforcing community bonds.

The Role of Feasting in Strengthening Bonds

The Christmas feast played a significant role in strengthening familial and communal bonds. It was a time for reconciliation, where past grievances were set aside in favour of celebration and togetherness. The act of sharing a meal, especially during a time of celebration, was a powerful symbol of unity and fellowship.

The Continuity of Tradition

Despite the political and religious upheavals of the 17th century, the tradition of the Christmas feast endured. It served as a reminder of continuity amidst change, a link to the past, and a reaffirmation of cultural and familial ties. The customs and traditions surrounding the feast were passed down through generations, each adding their own nuances, thus keeping the spirit of the season alive through the ages.

Adapting Old Recipes for Modern Kitchens

Exploring the culinary traditions of the 17th century is not only about understanding history; it’s also about bringing a piece of the past into our present-day kitchens. Adapting these age-old recipes for modern cooking provides a unique way to connect with our ancestors and experience a taste of their lives.

Interpreting Historical Recipes

One of the first challenges in adapting old recipes is deciphering the language and measurements used. Recipes from the 17th century often lack precise instructions or standardised measurements. They might include terms unfamiliar to us today and rely on cooking methods that are not practical in modern kitchens. Understanding these recipes requires a bit of culinary detective work, combining historical knowledge with cooking expertise.

Modernising Ingredients and Techniques

While some ingredients from the 17th century are still readily available, others might be rare or have changed in flavour over time. Modern cooks might need to find substitutes that capture the spirit of the original while being accessible. Additionally, adapting cooking methods to modern appliances, like using an oven instead of an open hearth, is often necessary. The key is to maintain the essence and flavour profile of the original dish while making practical adjustments.

Preserving Historical Culinary Traditions

Adapting these recipes is also about preserving and reviving historical culinary traditions. It is an opportunity to explore the roots of contemporary cuisine and understand how past cooking practices have shaped modern food culture. By bringing these old recipes to life, we keep a connection with the past, offering a delicious way to engage with history.

Tips for Successful Adaptations

1. Start with Research: Understanding the historical context of the recipe can provide clues about ingredients and methods.
2. Be Creative with Substitutions: Look for modern equivalents that stay true to the original flavours.
3. Adjust Quantities and Cooking Times: Adapt measurements and cooking times to suit modern kitchen equipment and taste preferences.
4. Document Your Process: Keeping a record of adaptations and outcomes helps refine the recipe for future attempts.

Conclusion: The Legacy of 17th Century Christmas Feasts

As we journey through the culinary landscape of 17th-century Christmas feasts, we are reminded that these meals were more than just a collection of dishes; they were a rich tapestry of history, tradition, and culture. The Christmas feast reflected the era’s social dynamics, culinary advancements, and the enduring human spirit of celebration and togetherness.

Connecting Past and Present

Exploring these traditional Christmas feasts offers us a unique way to connect with our ancestors. Through the flavours, ingredients, and cooking methods of the past, we gain insights into their lives and the times they lived in. This historical journey is not just about understanding what our ancestors ate, but also about appreciating the broader context of their lives – the challenges they faced, the traditions they cherished, and the joy they found in moments of celebration.

The Evolution of Festive Traditions

The Christmas feast of the 17th century laid the groundwork for many of our modern holiday traditions. From the roasted meats to the rich pies and spiced drinks, these culinary customs have evolved, yet the essence of the celebration remains the same—a time for gathering, for sharing, and for reflecting on our connections to the past and each other.

A Celebration of Culinary Heritage

This exploration is also a celebration of our rich culinary heritage. It highlights the importance of preserving these traditional recipes and practices, not just as historical curiosities, but as living connections to our history. Recreating these dishes, or simply learning about them, means that we keep the legacy of our ancestors alive, honouring their lives and contributions to our shared culinary history.

A Journey of Discovery

Ultimately, delving into the 17th-century Christmas feast is a journey of discovery – a discovery of flavours and traditions, of history and heritage. It is a testament to the enduring nature of culinary traditions and their ability to bring us closer to the generations that came before us. As we celebrate our own holiday feasts, let us remember the rich tapestry of history that graces our tables, a delicious legacy of our shared past.

References and Further Reading

For readers interested in delving deeper into the world of 17th-century British cuisine and Christmas feasts, the following resources offer valuable insights and detailed information. These sources provide a mix of historical context, recipes, and analysis, enriching our understanding of the era’s culinary traditions.

1. “Food and Cooking in 17th Century Britain: History and Recipes” by Peter Brears.
   • This comprehensive guide explores the food and cooking methods of 17th-century Britain, offering a mix of historical context and recipes that bring the era’s cuisine to life.
2. “The English Housewife” by Gervase Markham (1615).
   • A classic text of the period, Markham’s book gives an authentic view of household management and cooking in the 17th century, including recipes and advice on preparing various dishes.
3. “The Art of Cookery in the Middle Ages” by Terence Scully.
   • Although focusing on an earlier period, Scully’s book provides valuable background on the evolution of cooking in Europe, setting the stage for understanding 17th-century culinary practices.
4. “British Food: An Extraordinary Thousand Years of History” by Colin Spencer.
   • Spencer’s book offers a broad historical overview of British food, including the significant transformations that occurred in the 17th century.
5. “A Taste of History: 10,000 Years of Food in Britain” by Maggie Black and Roy Porter.
   • This book provides a sweeping overview of British culinary history, with specific sections dedicated to the 17th century, offering insights into the food culture of the time.
6. “The Time Traveller’s Guide to Restoration Britain: A Handbook for Visitors to the Seventeenth Century: 1660-1699” by Ian Mortimer.
   • Mortimer’s engaging guidebook style presents a vivid picture of life in Restoration Britain, including detailed descriptions of food and dining customs.

A 17th Century Christmas Feast

In stately halls from times long past,
The Christmas feast was grand and vast.
With holly decked and candles bright,
Mirth and laughter filled the night.

Spiced wine warmed within the glow,
As outside lay the fresh-fallen snow.
Pies and puddings, rich and sweet,
Marked this time of joyful meet.

Through tapestried rooms, echoes of song,
Where the night seems joyous and so long.
Under the mistletoe, tales and kisses blend,
In 17th century's Christmas, traditions wend.

1. https://www.historyextra.com/period/stuart/no-christmas-under-cromwell-the-puritan-assault-on-christmas-during-the-1640s-and-1650s/ ↩︎
2. https://historicengland.org.uk/listing/what-is-designation/heritage-highlights/did-oliver-cromwell-really-ban-christmas/#:~:text=The%20rejection%20of%20Christmas%20as,1660%2C%20Christmas%20was%20officially%20illegal. ↩︎

Anthony Carter

My name is Anthony, the founder of Genealogical Footsteps. I have over 20 years of dedicated experience in family history and genealogy (although I am not a professional genealogist). I hold BA in history, and am considering further education (despite my age). My journey in genealogy has led me to remarkable discoveries and projects, particularly where my Cypriot genealogy is concerned. I am passionate about uncovering the stories behind names and have helped friends and family connect with their heritage, including those with Cypriot, Celtic, and Viking ancestry. Click here to read more about me.